Woodworking Techniques: Sandpaper
- on 05.29.10
- Woodworking Tips and Techniques
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Being the type of guy who likes to know as much about a subject as I can, I started to do some research on what I’ve always considered a simple subject, good old plain everyday sandpaper. Only to find out that there is no such thing as plain simple sandpaper. In fact the more I read the more confused I became. One of the reasons for the confusion is that everyone who has access to the internet seems to have an opinion on what is and what isn’t the correct sandpaper to use.
I started out reading an article in “Fine Woodworking”, entitled “Sanding between coats for a flawless finish”. In the article the author talked about using Stearated sandpaper, as a sanding medium. While I had heard of the term, I wasn’t 100 % sure of the meaning, so I turned to the good old internet and goggled the word. And that’s where the confusion began. Not about the definition of the word, it’s a form of sandpaper that is classified as non-loading or self lubricating. The confusion was whether it’s a good or bad thing to use. Some experts claim that Stearated paper is the greatest thing since the invention of sliced bread, others claim that it’s the worst thing ever invented. The majority of the controversy is based on issues where “fisheyes” appear in the finished surface when Stearated paper is used.
While I was reading the posts discussing sandpaper pro’s and con’s, I can across references for both CAMI and FEPA sandpapers. Again because I’m somewhat obsessive, I had to look up those terms. It appears that American and European manufacturers can’t agree on terminology for sandpaper. The “Federation of European Producers of Abrasives” (FEPA) defines the aggressiveness of sandpaper based on a “P” scale, while The American “Coated Abrasive Manufacturers Index” simply lists the differences as “Grit”. Looking at a comparison chart between the two there actually appears to be very little difference between the two. A paper rated as 60 grit has particles that are 265 micrometers in diameter, while the FEPA P-60 has 269 Micrometers particles. Big deal, the difference is so small to the point of being of no consequences.
I did find some information that actually made sense; Sandpaper is available with three basic materials, Aluminum Oxide, Garnet and Silicon Carbide. Of the three, Aluminum Oxide is the most common paper, it last longer than Garnet or Silicon Carbide and is best used on bare woods. Garnet wears fast and is less aggressive then Aluminum Oxide. But has finer scratch patterns, making it a better choice for finish work. Silicon Carbide is harder then Aluminum Oxide, but wears fast. Silicon Carbide can be used both as a wet or dry medium, and is a good choice for between coats sanding.
While I’m still confused about what type of paper to use, I do concur with the idea that it is imperative that any finish you apply must be sanded between coats.
I guess the next time I go to the store to buy “Sand paper”, I will have a lot more to think about. More than just what grit paper I need.
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