Sawdust on the Floor

Only a couple more tasks to complete and then I can move on to applying the finish to the bedroom dresser. The frame has been built, and all eight drawers are completed.  All that remains is the installation of the top and installing the eight drawers, and then finally the trim pieces can be applied to cover the exposed plywood.  The top is just a larger version of the glued up tops that were installed on the nightstands. 6/4 Cherry edge glued with the joints reinforced with biscuits. Everything was done the same way, why change something that works? 

The drawers, however, were really different. From the exterior the drawers look the same, inset drawers with the exactly the same hardware as the nightstand drawers. The interior of the drawers is where we see changes. The nightstand drawers featured a drawer lock joint, while the dresser uses dove tail joints. The other main difference is that on the dresser I elected to use full extension side mounted drawer guides instead of the center mounted drawer guides used on the nightstand. These changes were made due to the increased weight loads that the dresser drawers may see. And the amount of times that the dresser drawers are opened and closed, as compared to the times the nightstand drawers are operated. 

Over the years I have installed quite a few side mounted drawer guides.  The concept is really simple. However getting the #@&^%$ things installed so that the drawer opens and closes smoothly is only part of the issue.  You also need to verify that when closed the drawer is centered within the drawer opening, and that the face of the drawer is level with the rails and stiles of the cabinet when the drawer is closed.  To accomplish this list of the things, the drawer guides must be installed correctly. That means that the frame portion of the guides is installed absolutely 100 % perpendicular from the face frame of the cabinet.  Also the right and left guides for each drawer must installed at the exact same position in the cabinet.  Plus the portions of the guides that are connected to the sides of the drawer must be installed at the same position on the sides ( right and left) of the drawer. 

The first difficulty is getting the frame portion of the guides installed correctly.  For the sake of discussion here, assume that the face of the cabinet is plumb, ( 90°), if so then when the frame portion of the guides were installed they would be completely level or 0°.  Logic would say that all you would have to do then is position the guide on top of a level, and while holding the level still attach the screws that hold the guide to the frame.   Like I said, logic would say that’s all you would have to do.  The reality is that it isn’t that easy.  A couple of problems, well at least they are problems in my shop.  First it’s hard to hold the level that still while attaching the screws, and then there is the fact that the insides of the cabinet are normally dark. And I don’t have three hands, which are needed to hold the level, predrill the holes for the screws and then insert the screws.  

To help keep what little amount of sanity that I may have left, I had to find a better way to install the frame portion of the guides. I found a simple tool at the local woodworking store that made this task 1000% easier. That tool is the Kreg Universal Side mounting Jig.  This simple unassuming piece of plastic is the answer to all of the issues with installing the frame side of the drawers.

This is one of those tools that I sit back and wonder “why didn’t I think of that”.  Take a look at the picture shown here at the right. The jig (bright blue) is shown installing a right hand side mounted drawer guide.  The guide (white) is held in the correct position by a strong magnet.  You simply attach the guide, then position the jig flush with the face of the frame. Clamp it in place with either a C clamp or I like to use one of my Kreg clamps.  With both hands free, and the guide locked into position, all that’s left is to attach the screws that hold the guide to the frame. To do the opposite side, insert the guide on the opposite side of the jig, position the jig, clamp and attach the screws. 

The next step is to attach the drawer to the guides.  Another task that has driven me nearly insane at times.  I’ve  spent countless hours tweaking drawers to get them to be “perfect”.  No more.  When I got the side mount jig, I also got a set of Kreg Drawer Mounting brackets.  What you do with these brackets is simply clamp them to the rails of your cabinet as shown below.   

Then simply place your drawer on the long arm of the bracket.  Extend the guides and attach the screws to the side of the drawer.  Remove the brackets and your done.  These two jigs have taken a task that ate up hours in my shop to one that is done in minutes.  NO more guess work, and the best part, they’re inexpensive.  Looking at the drawers in the dresser, starting at the top, you will note that there are no horizontal rails between the first and second drawer, nor are there any between the third and forth drawers. When I installed the first and third drawers, I clamped a temporary rail in place, and then proceeded as explained above. For the second and forth drawers, I used the plywood bases as the horizontal rails.  If I had installed the trim prior to this, I would not have had a place to install Kreg jigs.  Good thing I remember to not install it until this was done.

Speaking of the trim let’s get that done next. Starting with the exposed horizontal plywood pieces. I ripped several pieces of 4/4 cherry stock to 2″ wide.  Once the stock was cut, I took it to the shaper where using a 1/2″ round over router bit, I eased both the top and bottom edges. After mitering the corners this trim was then installed on the front, and both sides of both pieces of plywood.  A combination of glue and a couple of 2″ finish nails from my nail gun secured the trim to the plywood.  I added spring clamps to the mitered corner while the glue sets up. 

The next step was to add decorative trim pieces over the remaining exposed horizontal plywood. For this I went back to my pile of pallet lumber and found some interesting pieces of 4/4 stock.  Again, I’m not sure of the species, but it looks like a member of the mahogany family.  I cut a total of six pieces of the stock to 1 1/2 wide and 14″ long.  Using glue and a couple of pin nails to secure it, I attached the trim pieces over the vertical plywood edges and the end grain of the side panels. 

So now to recap, the drawers are installed, the exposed plywood has been covered by trim pieces. all that remains is to install the top of the dresser.  And that was done with several Kreg pocket screws driven from the  inside the dresser into the underside of the top.  The top was held flush on the rear, and extends 2″ on the front and both sides.  

Since this dresser will become part of a suite of furniture, I chose to finish it with the same materials as the other two components, the headboard and night stand.  The first coat a 50/50 mixture of tung oil and linseed oil, followed by a 50/50 mixture of tung oil and polyurethane, and finally several coats of pure polyurethane. 

Looking back over the whole project, I have mixed feelings.  Part of me is glad that it is done, yet part of me wishes there was more to do on it.  Also because I am a normal woodworker, I see every flaw or mistake in all the pieces.  But taken as a whole, it was a fun project that gave us a one of a kind bedroom suite that hopefully will last us for many years.  One because I really like the look and the other is that I don’t think I can find enough help to move it again, remembering how heavy and massive the headboard got.